Siberian Husky Training Secrets
I grew up in a Siberian Husky world. There were Siberians in our house, and outside 10 Siberians roamed a series of extensive kennel runs. To my delight, I spent many hours with these dogs, observing their unique habits. I saw them in their refined state, when my parents showed them in the ring. I saw them in their more natural state on the trail, when we went sledding.
One evening, when I was 8 years old, I accidentally learned crucial lessons about Siberians. Playing outside, I lifted the latch on the kennel gate. Before I could respond, several Siberians burst out across the yard, into the woods. Hopelessly, I called for them to come back. I ran inside and reported this to my mother and father. We jumped into our van and headed down the street.
Feeling guilty, I observed as we drove slowly, stopping whenever one of the dogs came into view. Without anger, my mother called out playfully, sliding open the van door. Instead of running away, the Siberian turned and ran towards the van, then jumped in, as if that was suddenly more exciting than running. Each time, the dog received a liver treat from my mother.
For 35 years, images of the Siberians running, and my parents successfully recovering them, have been indelible parts of my view of these dogs.
From this story, an obvious lesson for puppy owners is that Siberians love to run. Also, they are curious, adventurous, with a mischievous streak. There are other, more subtle lessons here. In frustrating situations, Siberians respond to playfulness and games. A base of trust with the Siberian's owner can resolve any challenge happily.
Independent, Attached
Siberian Huskies are perhaps more independent than other breeds. And yet, they are also very attached. "They will stand next to you and let you pet them for a while, then they'll run off," explained my mother, Roberta Davies, in a recent interview recounting 40 years of training, showing, and breeding Siberians.
Lori Merritt, who has trained Siberians since 1973, explains it this way: "Some dogs have an attitude like, 'Tell me what to do next!' Siberians have an attitude like, 'That sounds interesting. Let me see how it fits into my agenda.'"
It seems contradictory to say that Siberians are attached and independent. But this makes sense when you consider their breeding as sled dogs. On a sledding team, Siberians must be finely attached to their leader for a general purpose and direction. But if the team is heading towards a big hole in the ground that the musher cannot see, the Siberians are expected to make decisions.
Karen Ramstead has run her team of Siberians in the Iditarod (the most grueling dog race in Alaska). She describes a situation that sums up the connected independence: "We were racing in a blizzard, and I couldn't find the trail. Total white-out conditions. But my Siberians knew where to go, and I just trusted them to stay on the track."
This balance of independence between you and your Siberian has relevance beyond racing, in everyday training. As Ramstead explains, "Let them know you have specific ways to work. If you insist on something, they must follow. Other times, you can say, 'It's your call.' The goal is for the dogs to know which decision is appropriate. It's all very subtle."
Training your Siberian puppy is all about that subtle balance.
Destructive, or an Inquiring Mind?
One of the strongest traits of Siberian Huskies is their mischievous nature. Davies describes it this way: "They're always looking to see what they can get away with. You have to be able to love this and laugh at it. They're very cat like and get into things."
Owners often remark that Siberians are destructive when left alone in the house. But it is not that they are destructive. Without their leader, their independent streak and inquisitive mind takes over and leads them to search for something interesting to explore. Once they make a discovery, they get engrossed in the game.
"They might start digging at a sofa and see some fuzz," Davies explains. "It's not that they want to destroy your furniture. It's just that it's such great fun to pull a little fuzz out...then a little more...until it's all over the floor."
The longer a Siberian is left alone, the more likely it is she will locate something fascinating to chew, open, or dig into. And a companion will not help. "Getting a second Siberian to keep the other one company makes it even worse," Davies cautions. "They just put their minds together and find things to get into."
If you come home to a ripped sofa, yelling at your puppy is counterproductive. It just causes distrust, harming training without ceasing the behavior.
Rather than getting angry, structure your dog's environment to take his exploratory nature into account. Do not leave your Siberian in the house all day while you are at work. Instead, set up an outdoor run. Hire a professional installer to make sure the fencing is securely in place, set all the way to the ground. Otherwise, your curious Siberian may find a spot to dig under, and get out of your yard, presenting even more difficulties.
Short Training Sessions
Some people say Siberians have short attention spans. Others disagree, saying Siberians are simply curious about what else there is to do. Ramstead, like other sledders, reports that after completing a five-mile run, if she brings a team back to the start of that same trail her dogs do not want to run it again. Instead, they will sit down or start playing in the snow. It is as if the team says, "We just did that! Let's do something else."
As Merritt describes, "With Siberians, an activity can suddenly become boring and tedious. When you're training, you have to know that and not get angry."
Whether it is short attention span or hunger for something new, work in short sessions in the first six months.
"When the puppies are a couple months old, I'll put a collar on them and have them walk next to me for three minutes," Davies explains. "That's enough. I give them treats. In a few weeks, they're trotting around after me."
Spend five to ten minutes on each session, three times a day. "Beyond that, they'll act like they don't want to do it," Merritt says. "That can create a bad cycle: frustrated owners and dogs bored with the idea of training."
How do you know when you have taken a session as long as it can go? Your puppy may just stop listening, refusing to follow commands she had done several times. Or she may walk away and get involved in something else.
"They might start running around in circles and refuse to come back," Merritt says. "That definitely means they're done! Don't try forcing them to come back."
"If that starts to happen," Davies advises, "don't push the dog. Just take note of how long you went, and call it an end. Do another session later, or the next day."
Every dog is unique. Watch your dog's signs, and structure sessions just right for her individual focus. Her endurance will gradually increase. By about five months, you should be up to 10-minute sessions. By six months, your Siberian should work with you 20 minutes at a time.
No matter how long a session goes, end on a positive note, with food and lots of praise.
Food: Siberian Currency
My mother reminded me of another lesson from that childhood memory: "Siberians are very food oriented."
"They're always thinking, 'OK, where is my next meal coming from?'" Merritt says. "If you learn how to train them with food, it's a major investment in the bank of your relationship."
This can play out at crucial times, when your Siberian's playful, but independent, nature surfaces. Let's say you are at the dog park, and it is time to go home. Your Siberian is too interested in chasing that other dog to come to you. If you have a food that you know she likes, and let her know you have it, she will likely listen to you.
It is not difficult to discover a food that your Siberian is interested in – dried liver works great, for example. But the trick is to link the food with a desirable behavior. "Even doing basic obedience, like 'sit' and 'come,' should always be associated with food rewards and strong praise," Davies explains. "Get really excited when they do something you want. Give food and praise every time the dog does what you want."
At the same time, do not devalue food by letting it become a commodity that appears without meaning. "Free-feeding Siberians is not a good idea," Merritt cautions. "Make sure they know food comes from you. If you just put food down and walk away, you miss a chance for the Siberian to see your importance. They already see food as important, now they need to know how necessary you are in obtaining it."
Turn feedings into a ritual. Make sure your Siberian watches you fill the food bowl, and speak to your dog while doing this. Keep your dog's attention as you slowly place the bowl down, and do not let her eat until the food is on the floor. Praise your dog for waiting patiently.
Treats can be used the same way – another opportunity to establish a connection through a valuable commodity. Merritt suggests having a "hierarchy of treats, with high-value and low-value treats. That makes it much more likely your dog will listen to you in challenging situations."
For example, when asking your dog to follow simple commands like "sit" or "stay," use carrots – which Siberians like just fine but don't crave. When you are outside and your dog is at a distance from you doing something too exciting to break away from, use liver – a very desirable treat – to get her to come back.
Recognized as the keeper of the food, you can form a solid building block for training and trust, which comes into play recreationally, and at more urgent moments. When you are walking downtown and your Siberian is getting into a fight with another dog – a situation requiring strong disincentives – liver treats will entice him back to your side.
Whether training your Siberian for those simple or challenging situations, regardless of the treat, be consistent. Always give food rewards when she does the desired behavior. Offer excited praise when she listens. Never yell at the dog for not doing something. But do not give the treat until she does what you ask.
Bonding Through Games
With ancestors who sledded over thousands of miles of icy terrain, Siberians have a natural tendency to pull. Tapping into this can be a great way to train and connect with your Siberian.
"Get into this early," Davies suggests. "When they are just four months old, put them on a lead, hooked up to a tire. Let them pull it across the yard. They'll love this. By a year, you can hook them up to a sled to pull a child through snow. Most Siberians will do this. Even if you don't plan to compete in sledding, it's great for them."
If you live in warmer climates, let your Siberian pull you on roller skates or a wheeled cart.
"There's something I call the 'tug game,'" Merritt says. "With most breeds, you might not want to encourage tugging, but with Siberians it can be rewarding. You just need to establish rules."
Tie a knot at the end of a length of thick rope. Pull it along the ground, as you would when playing with a cat. This brings out a Siberian's prey drive.
"Let the puppy grab it and pull," Merritt explains. "You tug also, going back and forth. Make excited, happy sounds while playing. But if the puppy bites your hand, make a distressed sound and let her know it hurts. That's the end of the game."
This builds on a Siberian's strong desire for play (the same tendency that could lead them to rip open your sofa). Once the Siberian understands that the game is only played under certain rules, she will want to play by those rules.
"You establish when the game begins and when it ends," Merritt says. "When the game is over, reach down, put your hands on either side of the dog's mouth, and remove the rope. Always make sure that in the end you have the rope in your hands."
Without using dominance, this game establishes you as the leader. It is a mutual game, with dog and person both engaged, and yet you have control of the situation.
It can have resonance far into the future. "Play this early, even at three months," Merritt says. "Like food, it will make you important. The dog can't play the game without you!"
New Environments
One of the best ways to make sure your Siberian understands a command is to use it in different environments. "Have the dog sit next to you in the kitchen," Merritt says. "Then do it in another room, then outside the house. After that, get them to sit 10 feet away. This teaches them to generalize the skill."
Following this same pattern of environments with all commands helps your puppy see the general training concept, that it is not just something you do in one place. Such understanding can be crucial in moments when you need your dog to listen in never-seen-before scenarios.
"This also teaches the puppy to focus more," Merritt adds. "No matter where you are, they're listening to you. Always follow up with praise and treats."
Keep Your Cool
Siberians love turning everything into a game, which can be great fun. At the same time, be aware that an excited voice – whether it is happy or angry – may bring out playfulness in a Siberian.
What does this mean for training? If your Siberian is doing something you like, be upbeat to encourage her. If she does something you do not like, yelling and chasing will not help.
"If you try to run after a Siberian who's getting away from you," Davies says, "they will start running around dodging you. You won't catch them, because they can outrun you."
This is where all the training with food and play comes in. Instead of yelling, you can change direction by using something your puppy likes. "If you train your Siberian to love going for rides," Davies explains, "if they run away, you just open the car door and they'll decide that's more interesting."
Always stay calm, even after your Siberian does what you want. If he has been running circles around you for 10 minutes, then comes for a liver treat, do not yell because it took so long. "This is true of all breeds," Davies explains, "but doubly true with Siberians. If you yell, you teach them they shouldn't listen next time."
No matter how frustrated you might be, praise your dog for listening.
Putting it All Together
After years training her dogs for racing challenges, Ramstead has an intimate sense of how to work with them: "Convince them they have to listen to you, but let them feel free to express their opinions. They need to have their creativity. Don't stifle that! Then you'll be able to connect, and do so much with them."
Labrador Retriever Grooming
Labrador Retrievers are rugged dogs. They love to romp in water and rumble through tall grass. They do not need too much primping and beautifying, right?
Although Labrador retrievers do not need much aesthetic care, there are several grooming activities that contribute to health and training, and the bond the two of you form.
A Happier and Healthier Puppy
Think of grooming as a way to train your puppy to enjoy being touched. Robin Anderson has been breeding and grooming Labs since 1984. As she explains, "The first day your puppy is home, touch her mouth, ears, feet, belly. Teach her that being handled is natural. When she's an adult, it'll be no big deal at the vet's office."
Take it from Barbara Burri, a veterinary technician and president of the Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston. Every day, she sees how wonderful it is when owners begin grooming early. "It's a great way to 'vet proof' your puppy. Vets love all dogs, but when a difficult one walks through the door, you see eyes rolling – 'oh, no, it's fluffy.' When one is easygoing, it's like, 'Hey, there's Rex, he's such a wonderful dog.'"
Developing grooming techniques assures that your puppy matures into a dog you are proud of. She will be calmer about examinations, reducing her stress, and your stress as well.
Regularly touching and examining your puppy also gives advanced warning of health concerns. Ann Burns has groomed many dogs since 1968, Labs in particular since 1986. As she puts it, "I was born with a brush in my hand. Labs tend to get into things. If your puppy has a thorn in his foot, grooming him and touching him is a great way to discover it."
A thorn in the foot may be minor. But grooming also reveals more serious concerns. "When you become hands-on with your dog," Ms. Burri explains, "you see everything early. Maybe you notice an eye issue, or a little ear problem before it becomes a major infection."
With general health and happiness benefits in mind, take a look at specific grooming techniques.
Shedding
Lab puppies have a soft coat that does not need much brushing. Over the first year, a hard, outer coat comes in. When your puppy is grown, you will need to brush out the soft undercoat about twice a year. You will know when it is necessary. "It's called 'blowing their coat,'" Ms. Anderson says. There will be hair all over your floor. You'll see tufts of fur along her flanks and under her chest."
Controlling shedding is simple. Just brush out the soft undercoat before it has a chance to fly all over your house. To do this, your Lab needs to sit still while as you brush him.
Labrador Retriever experts suggest using a soft rubber brush. "It feels nice, like a massage for your dog," Ms. Anderson says. Do not wait until the first time your Lab blows his coat. Start as a puppy getting him patient about brushing. "That way, you'll be able to do it at home later on," Ms. Anderson adds. "Otherwise, you might have to go to a professional groomer."
Here is an opportunity for basic obedience. "When you brush your puppy, she will try to wiggle away or nip playfully at your fingers," Ms. Burns says. "Firmly insist that she sit still until you brush her all over."
Limit Bathing
Labrador Retriever coats have oils that repel dirt. For the most part, bathing is not necessary. "If your dog is really smelly," Ms. Burns says, "give him a bath. But a good brushing is better." Excess bathing removes those protective oils and actually promotes dirt.
Dealing with Wet Fur
Ask owners about their Lab's favorite activities, and swimming tops the list. You want to give your puppy opportunities to swim, for exercise and happiness. But do not overlook grooming requirements that come along with the fun.
After a good swim, people often take their Labs directly from the river into the back of the car, sopping wet. This can create health issues. After your puppy has had a great time playing in the water and mud, dry her off thoroughly before she gets into the car.
Perhaps this sounds unnecessarily fussy. But it can be serious. "While playing, she can scratch her skin," Ms. Anderson explains. "Then she lays down in your car with wet fur, and it can develop into hot spots, which lead to infections. That's an expensive vet treatment." Many times, when Lab owners see hot spots, they do not realize that this is the hidden cause.
Rambunctious puppies often will not sit still for toweling. This is another opportunity for basic training. "I make it into a game," Ms. Burri says. "I yell, 'Wet dog!' My puppies come thundering over. I give them a little treat. Pretty soon, they love getting toweled off."
Keep a few towels in the back of your car. And make sure to remove the collar before toweling off. A wet collar on wet fur is another potential source of infection.
Nail Clipping
With brushing and toweling perfected, now comes nail clipping, a bigger challenge dreaded by dogs and owners alike. Like all grooming, starting young makes a difference.
To prepare, get your puppy used to having her paws touched. Each day, gently lift each paw up for five seconds. Maintain a playful attitude. "If you touch your puppy's paws right from the start," Ms. Anderson says, "it's easier once you begin clipping her nails, and when you go to the vet she won't think it's bizarre when someone examines her paws."
Speaking again from veterinary perspective, Ms. Burri says, "We tell our clients, get their puppies used to having the toes touched. When you come to the clinic, you won't have the 'Labrador cowboy circus,' – three technicians holding your dog down for nail clipping!"
Owners who get their puppies accustomed to having their paws touched guarantee stress-free vet visits. "Then it's a quick in-and-out," Ms. Burri says, "not traumatic for the puppy, the owner, or the vet staff!"
In the first year, Labs have fine, thin nails. Cut just the sharp tips using either scissor or guillotine clippers. Think of puppy nails as practice. "If you get good at the little nails," Ms. Burri explains, "you and your dog will be ready when thicker ones come in."
The Ears
After conquering nail clipping, checking your puppy's ears is a breeze. During regular grooming, for about 10 seconds each, have your puppy sit still as you lift up his ears and look inside.
Labrador retrievers are prone to ear infections. They love water, and those floppy ears cover the damp inner parts – a perfect environment for bacteria. When toweling off after a swim, pay special attention to the ears. "Use cotton balls swabbed with rubbing alcohol to remove water and dry the ears out," Ms. Burns suggests.
Start early, and you will be thankful. "If your Lab develops an ear problem, it will be easy for you or the vet to do treatments, because he'll be used to it," Ms. Anderson promises.
Oral Care
Oral care is the most overlooked grooming need, yet it is perhaps the most important for long-term health. Research shows that tooth and gum health is directly related to healthier kidneys, liver, and heart.
Still, for most owners brushing their puppy's teeth runs a close second behind nail clipping as the most dreaded grooming task. Again, get started while your Lab is young.
To lead up to brushing, use a simple ritual in the first couple of weeks. Open your puppy's mouth and look inside. Gently insist that your puppy allows you to do this for eight seconds. While her mouth is open, touch her teeth with your fingers. "Offer constant praise," Ms. Anderson suggests, "and when you're done give her a treat. She'll learn that opening her mouth is good. That will make it easier when you go to the vet and they need to examine her gums."
There are several effective toothbrushes. If your dog tolerates it, try an electric brush. But a standard handle type is good, or use one of the rubber ones that fit over your finger. "Whichever one you use, it's vital to get her used to brushing," Ms. Burri emphasizes, again sharing her perspective as a veterinary professional. "Besides a huge health advantage, brushing twice a week can save you hundreds of dollars on dental cleanings."
Summing Up
Remember, dogs are excellent at reading body language. If you feel stressed, your puppy will be stressed. If you feel relaxed, your puppy will be relaxed. "Make grooming pleasurable," Ms. Anderson says. "At each stage, offer her praise and treats. The way to a Lab puppy's heart is definitely through her tummy!"
"Grooming helps you build a relationship," Ms. Burri promises. "You'll learn how to assert your authority, confidently and consistently. You realize it's OK to ask your puppy to stand quietly and do what you ask. Soon, both of you enjoy it!"
Dachshund Socialization
Every Dachshund owner wants a puppy who is great with all kinds of people and all other dogs. You want your Dachshund to greet the wide world with confidence and happiness. A healthy relationship with the wide world actually begins with a much smaller world – your household and the connection your Dachshund puppy has with you. Teaching your puppy to respect and trust you builds a sense of confidence and security that allows the puppy to do well in all situations both now, and when she grows up.
Training a puppy to be well socialized might seem like a big job. But Dachshund experts offer lots of practical, easy-to-do activities you can practice with your puppy right now. Remember, the earlier you start, the more successful you will be.
Keep in Mind Who This is!
Before you begin socializing your Dachshund puppy, take a moment to consider the fascinating history of the breed, and how this affects what you see today. For centuries, Dachshunds were bred to do a rather nasty job. They hunted badgers, chasing the animals down into muddy holes in the ground. More important, Dachshunds were bred to do this independently, with little or no direction from human leaders.
Since 1980, Lisa Warren has been breeding and training Standard Long-Haired Dachshunds, as well as miniature varieties. She says the Dachshund's history gives you something important to consider as you begin the process of socialization. "Dachshunds are supposed to be independent, even a little stubborn. It's not fair to choose this breed and then ask them to put that history aside!"
Ms. Warren says this, not as criticism, but as a way to help Dachshund owners form the best relationship with their puppies. She suggests holding onto this image of Dachshunds as independent dogs as you move forward with socialization. If you do that, she insists, the rewards are worth it. "Even saying they are stubborn, it's not hard to socialize Dachshunds. After all, they wouldn't be in the top 10 most popular breeds if they didn't make great pets. People seem to like having a dog with some more independence. Respect that independence. It can be endearing if you channel it in the right direction."
That raises the core question: how do you keep that lovable independence, but channel it so one day you have a full-grown Dachshund who is a pleasure to be around?
A Few Weeks for Socialization
Barbara Axel has been breeding, training, and showing Standard Long-Hair and Standard Wire-Hair Dachshunds for 51 years. She has also managed a puppy kindergarten since 1974. To introduce what socialization is, she first says what it is not. "Socialization does not mean putting the puppy in your lap and holding it."
With that said, socialization can be quite easy and enjoyable. Just break it down into manageable steps. At each step, remember that the goal is to keep the wonderful nature of your Dachshund, while having her recognize you as a source of confidence, leadership, and security.
Surface Exploration
Look around your home and yard, at the variety of surfaces that surround you. What you take as simple aspects of your environment are perfect opportunities to build a connection with your Dachshund puppy. Charlotte Borghardt has been active with Standard Long-Hair Dachshunds since 1967. She is the chairman of the health and welfare committee for the Dachshund Club of America, and she is an AKC judge. As a first step towards socialization, she says to expose your Dachshund puppy to one new surface each week.
"First, let him walk on concrete," Ms. Borghardt suggests. "Then let him walk over a wooden deck. Put small planks of wood on the ground and have him step over them." Make sure to do this, and all other surface exploration, with the puppy on leash.
After your puppy tries out some simple surfaces, Ms. Borghardt offers a more venturesome idea. "Get one of those non-slip rubber bathtub mats. Turn it upside down and let the puppy walk on it. The suction cups feel all squishy and weird."
This can be a source of amusement, as you watch your puppy navigating each new surface. Just make sure your puppy sees you there and associates your face with each newfound sense of confidence.
As the puppy grows, increase the challenges. "Get a ladder and lay it on the ground," Borghardt suggests. "Have the puppy step slowly over each rung. Don't be forceful, just encourage the puppy the whole time." You can get more creative and come up with other types of surfaces.
This is not meant to be agility training. The idea here is that your puppy explores, while seeing you in command the whole time. In the puppy's mind, everything is safe with you around. As Borghardt says, "The puppy might not really want to step over those ladder rungs, but he'll learn to trust you and know that you would never put him in a dangerous situation. He learns that he has to listen to you, but that whatever you tell him to do is OK."
From this simple set of steps, you are preparing your puppy to trust you in more complex and unpredictable social interactions that will come up in the years ahead.
Touch Training
There are lots of quiet times with your puppy. These can be transformed into socialization sessions. Next time you get the urge to pet your puppy, pick her up and put her on a counter top. Gently touch her ears and mouth, then her feet. Most puppies do not like being touched like this, so each time she lets you do it give her a treat and say how wonderful she is. Ms. Borghardt says this exercise has long-lasting socialization benefits. "The puppy is thinking, 'I'm not really crazy about having my feet touched, but it's not bad so I'll let you do it.' You don't do these things for a long time, just three seconds then release. You're in charge, but not forceful."
Try to do this every day for the first couple of weeks. The payoff will come when you take your Dachshund to the vet's office. By that time, she will be used to standing on a counter and she might actually enjoy being examined. It will be worth it just to hear your vet say what a wonderful puppy you have!
Challenging Personal Space
Dachshunds were bred for centuries to be tough little dogs. Find ways to shape that toughness to be more socially acceptable. This sounds like a complicated task, but, just like surface explorations, use simple steps to achieve bigger goals. Find appropriate times to present a calm but assertive challenge to your puppy's personal space.
For example, Dachshunds love to eat, so meal times present one of the best opportunities for socialization. Give your puppy a bowl of food. While she is eating, kneel down so you are near her height and pet her gently. This makes the puppy associate being touched – a slight invasion of her space – with eating. She learns to tolerate it, even welcome it, instead of getting upset.
Next, Ms. Borghardt describes how to take the feeding exercise up another notch. "One time, instead of petting him, take the food bowl away. Put a different kibble in it, then put the bowl back." Why would an owner do this? Is it just to antagonize the puppy? Ms. Borghardt says it gives the puppy a whole new perspective on trust. "The puppy learns quickly that when you take something away, he ends up getting something even better and more interesting."
The same kind of positive challenge can be applied with chew toys, which Dachshunds are often fiercely reluctant to part with. As Ms. Borghardt says, "Dachshunds don't always understand sharing. But you should teach them not to be possessive. Give him a toy, then take it away. If he growls, keep the toy away. When he doesn't growl, praise him a lot, then give the toy back." This is not meant to be a power struggle. This exercise shows your Dachshund that good feelings are generated from sharing. She also learns to allow others to get up close and personal, even with her favorite possessions.
This kind of training can be extremely valuable. Let's say you have guests over your house, and they bring their small child. When the child tries to take a stuffed toy away from your Dachshund, you can be confident that there will not be any scary incidents. Another real-world scenario is when you are out on a walk and your Dachshund picks up an unspeakably disgusting object from the sidewalk. The hunter instincts come out. But because of your training, you will be able to take the object away without a fight.
Different Social Situations
After you have built up a good bond through surface explorations, touch training, and challenges to personal space, head out with your puppy into a busy place. Again, make sure your puppy is on leash for all this, as the point is for her to always see you as a source of command and security.
Stores like Home Depot are a good choice. They often let people come in with a puppy on leash, and they are bustling with noise and activity – perfect places to build confidence. "Just walk around the store," Ms. Borghardt suggests. "Don't force anyone to pet your puppy, but just let them approach and touch the puppy. The whole time, you just act nonchalant about all of it." The puppy reads your body language and learns that all this activity is positive.
Puppy Kindergarten: Great Idea, But Choose Wisely
You can accomplish a lot, just you and your puppy. At some point, though, you will want to get your puppy into groups of dogs. One of the best ways to do this is at a puppy kindergarten. These are offered at pet centers throughout the country, and they are terrific for taking socialization to the next step. It is important, however, to be a wise consumer and choose the best program.
What to Look For
"Not all classes are equal," Ms. Axel explains. After running her own puppy kindergarten program for over 35 years, she knows that not all programs have a good atmosphere for Dachshunds. Take the time to observe the class and watch the teacher. "Look for a teacher that has a good rapport with students and puppies," Ms. Axel advises. "The teacher should be able to lead the puppies without force. Look for a teacher who works with groups of dogs and does not just focus on one dog at a time while the rest of the group stands around."
The right puppy kindergarten is a place where you can continue building on the essential progress you made at home. As Ms. Borghardt emphasizes, "It should be a class. It shouldn't be a free-for-all where everyone's dog runs loose. There should be structure, for owners as well as puppies. It should be a place where the puppies are learning how to relate to other dogs."
Do not be afraid to question the teacher about larger goals for the class, and guiding philosophies. "The teacher should be able to verbalize what they are doing," Ms. Axel says. "If they can't explain what they do, and why they do it, it might not be a good class for you."
Some Things You Should Not Do
As you work with your puppy at home and in kindergarten classes, your Dachshund will develop ever better social skills. Along the way, try to avoid some common pitfalls.
Off-Leash: Too Much of a Good Thing
It seems that letting your Dachshund puppy have open play with lots of other dogs is a wonderful form of socialization. However, Dachshund experts strongly advise against this. Ms. Axel says that off-leash play parks, which have become popular in recent years, are a bad idea. "When I started with Dachshunds, I also thought this was great. But it too often ends up being a place where more submissive dogs get bullied. It can be a disaster."
Ms. Borghardt agrees, and has seen Dachshunds learn negative behaviors in situations like this. "It could very easily make your Dachshund afraid of big dogs forever."
Even if your puppy is dominant, open play parks may threaten all the progress you have achieved in forming a crucial socialization bond. As Ms. Axel explains, "You want the puppy's attention on you in those early months. The puppy should be watching you." Dachshunds are smart. Going to the play park may teach them ways to avoid listening.
You do not have to be a complete spoil sport. When your puppy is a little older, closer to a year, Ms. Axel says going to the park can become a training opportunity. "Let the puppy play for five minutes, then call him over and make him sit or stay. Then let him go back and play." This makes the puppy more secure, knowing that that even in the most chaotic social situations you are in command. It also shows your puppy that you know how to have some fun!
Putting it All Together
While extremely important, proper socialization is not difficult or complicated. It does not stop you from bonding in a loving way with your puppy. In fact, it can be exciting and fun for you and your Dachshund, and can lead to the strongest emotional connection. Become the center of your Dachshund's social world by showing that you are a calm, confident, loving, and worthy leader. You will have a great relationship, and a great dog, that you are proud of.
Cesar Nation
For several seasons on his National Geographic Channel show, "The Dog Whisperer," Cesar Millan has performed what appears to be some form of magic. Each week, he goes into the homes of people with unruly, often dangerously aggressive dogs. Millan confidently approaches the dog and somehow reveals a terrific pet that has been waiting to come out from beneath the savage beast.
Viewers could be forgiven for thinking that the "dog whisperer" concept has a made-for-television feel. But in a recent interview, Millan revealed that he is interested in more than entertainment. Day and night, he thinks of ways to improve the lives of dogs.
Healthy Leaders
Growing up in rural Mexico, Millan saw people use force to make dogs submit to human control. He understood early on that this was wrong. "From the very beginning of my life, dogs were always important to me. I tried to develop this instinct to know how to be with them, how to gain their trust and respect so they would gain mine. I never asked them to do anything I was not willing to do and give back to them 100%."
It worked. Packs of feral dogs eagerly followed him and obeyed his commands. To Millan, "This was paradise." On the downside, it made him a loner and earned him teasing nicknames from his peers. "They called me 'perrero,' which kind of means 'someone who smells like dogs.' But that didn't bother me. I had a total bond with Mother Nature."
Millan admits that his ability to lead dogs relies on talents he was born with. As an adolescent, he realized there was more than instinct to human-dog bonding. "It's not just about being nice to the animals. When you see a mother dog with her puppies, she doesn't get excited and scream, 'Hi babies!' She establishes rules and boundaries and limitations. That's the role we have to create – the authority, the pack leader."
Millan says the pack leader concept is often misunderstood. People waver between a fear of being too harsh, or too soft, with their dogs. Either way, Millan says it can create a sense of instability, a disservice to our dogs. To illustrate the proper kind of emotional, respectful bond we should have with our dogs, Millan gives a human analogy: "If you're driving in your car and you break the rules, a pack leader comes along and gives you a ticket. If that pack leader treats you with calm, assertive respect, that's good leadership. But if that pack leader has a personal thing going on, and gets angry and abusive, or if that leader doesn't tell you what you need to do, you feel unsafe or confused. It's just like that with dogs. You have to be strong, but don't create nervousness, anxiety, or fear. If you do that, it's not discipline. It's punishment. In nature, alphas discipline, but they don't punish, and they don't get frustrated or angry."
This all comes to Millan naturally, but he stresses that anyone can learn, unless you are dealing with a dog that has dangerous aggression problems. He says the first step is to allow a dog to come to you rather than overpowering the animal. "I always teach kids to let the dog approach you. That makes you the pack leader. The dog is following you. People are all about ears, then eyes, then conversation. Dogs are all about smell. When a dog wants to smell you, let it happen. Let them finish. That let's the dog read your energy, which is all they know about."
Sometimes, effective leadership involves what people should not do. Here, Millan's advice becomes difficult for many modern dog owners. "I love that in America people are becoming more humane to dogs. But I don't love that we're turning dogs into humans." Millan cites several specific problems most people are familiar with: letting dogs sleep with us, allowing dogs to walk through a door before people, and letting dogs pull ahead of us on leash.
Millan does not deny the appeal of cuddling in bed with his Rottweiler. The problem, he believes, is that it makes humans and dogs appear as equals. "Who is the leader there? This can cause frustration for humans later on when they need to lead. It can also cause stress for dogs because there is inconsistent, unbalanced leadership in the pack."
Whispering Across the Nation
Except for the most extreme cases, Millan believes all dogs slated for euthanasia in shelters because of behavioral problems can be rehabilitated. Capitalizing on his "Dog Whisperer" success, Millan and his wife established the Cesar and Ilusion Millan Foundation, which raises money for dog shelters nationally. Their mission goes beyond training, Millan says. "We've done a lot of harm to Mother Nature. We have so many dogs in shelters. We create them, then we kill them when there are problems, just because it's the easiest thing to do. We'd be better off if we kept these dogs alive and learned something from them."
That sentiment is behind Millan's most ambitious project – a nationwide network of "dog sanctuaries." Still in the distance, his goal is a center in every state of the country, where even the most troubled dogs can be trained, and saved from euthanasia. To make it happen, Millan says many more people who understand dog psychology are needed, people who have that natural ability to be effective pack leaders. For the psychology centers to become a reality, Millan appeals to future dog trainers to join him. "We want to hear from all those kids and adults out there who want to make a difference. We need them to be pack leaders who will work in every sanctuary."
The sanctuaries would not only rehabilitate dogs. They would also train humans. Without that, the mission fails. Laughing, Millan says, "With dogs, we can turn them around in days. But with humans, we have to be more patient! That can sometimes take years."
Owner to Breeder, Part 3
"You don't have to breed your dogs," says Janina Laurin. This may seem puzzling, coming from someone who has been involved with dogs since childhood, has been breeding Belgian Tervurens for 35 years, and in 2002 was recognized as the AKC's Herding Breeder of the Year. But Ms. Laurin says she regularly poses this simple statement for all breeders, including herself, no matter how many champions she can list.
On any given weekend, an owner can head out to shows and see beautiful dogs prancing around the ring, earning blue ribbons and respect. At every show, there are people quietly watching those dogs and deciding they are ready to establish their own breeding program. Ken Stickney, who has been breeding Manchester Terriers for about 40 years, says dog breeding is like many other social comparisons. "It's like seeing someone with a higher salary or a better job, and you think it's easy to do the same thing. But you often don't realize what's involved."
Why Do It?
What is involved, experienced breeders report, are numerous challenges. There is the steep financial reality of retaining veterinarians to care for your dogs, examine all your puppies, and administer several health checks. There are the frustrations of dealing with buyers who want a dog but have no understanding or appreciation of your breed, or your lofty goals. There are the risks to your reputation if something were to go wrong with a whelping.
Ms. Laurin says that dog breeding, "Is not a hobby. It's not a business. It's a lifestyle. It consumes you seven days a week." As you become more committed to this lifestyle, your non-dog friends fade out, and your entire circle of acquaintances becomes dog people.
What motivates people to embark on this complicated, expensive, often frustrating lifestyle?
Barbara Miller, chosen in 2002 for the AKC Breeder of the Year award, has been breeding Norfolk Terriers since 1975. She poses basic questions to new and established breeders, and to herself: "What are you trying to do with your dogs? Are you going to keep them? Are you going to show them? Are you trying to produce pets or show dogs? Are you trying to prove something?"
No one expects simple answers. Even experienced breeders wander as they struggle with these questions. Their musings do provide a wide-angled view of motivations, helpful for someone considering the transition from dog owner to dog breeder.
Ego and Healthy Pride
Responsible breeders openly admit that they are trying to prove something – that they are moving towards physical or behavioral perfection. To many inexperienced breeders, or those considering becoming breeders, these motivations feel too egotistical, so they push it aside.
Ms. Miller says breeders should instead engage with their ego in a healthy way. "When I breed, I'm trying to prove that I can produce beautiful, well-constructed, alert, happy, well-tempered animals, and I want my puppies to do well in the show ring."
Winning in the ring is Ms. Miller's test of healthy ego. "When I see my dogs do well, there is pleasure, a thrill. My dogs have won tons of best in shows, but every time it happens, I cry. I just think, 'Wow, look at that dog. Look at what I was able to do through good breeding and concentrating on my goals.' You think of how to create dogs that will be 15 years old and still have a great disposition and terrific structure. You're proud of that. It's your ego that pushes you to believe you can do it. Your pleasure, your love of dogs, and your ego mesh."
Catherine Nelson has been breeding Dandie Dinmont Terriers since 1972, and was selected as AKC's 2004 Breeder of the Year. Like Ms. Miller, she believes that getting involved in a sport is essential to testing what you are trying to accomplish, of visualizing your goals of improving the stamina and intelligence of your dogs. Her sport is showing in the ring. But there are many other possibilities. "Choose something appropriate for your breed," Ms. Nelson advises. "Challenge yourself to see if what you produced, lovingly cared for, trained, and raised is succeeding. Breeding becomes a natural extension of the sport. You're doing it together with the dogs."
Meshing with your dogs is part of the beauty of breeding, but it also makes you more vulnerable as your self worth gets tied up with what you create. Ms. Miller says breeders must have a strong enough ego to succeed with their dogs, yet know how to separate the dog from themselves. "Your ego gets connected with this non-vocal animal. Not everyone is going to love your dogs. When someone criticizes your dog, it becomes a personal attack on this poor, defenseless animal. And that animal represents your thoughts and plans and dreams. You have to have enough confidence to love what you're doing, but you need to let in enough criticism to always rethink your plans."
Clear Vision
Over time, a breeder's goals evolve, but Ms. Laurin says that it should be possible to state what motivates each particular breeding. "Every time, you have specific things you're trying to improve. Name those things. Once you have the big traits taken care of, look at smaller and smaller ones. After I've bred a few litters and my dogs have good movement and they are structurally sound, now I'm on a journey to improve ear size or eye shape. Keep what you've accomplished and move forward. Always breed for the future."
But do not ignore the past. "A lot of people come into breeding with this idea of a grand plan," Ms. Laurin says. "But they have no idea whether someone else has already tried what they are trying to do. They don't know who the big players are in their breed."
Ask yourself what happened in historic experiments with coat color, temperament, size, gait, or other traits. Were they successful, and how can those past experiments be instructive?
Ms. Laurin says a breed's history can help guide you in answering the basic questions of why you are doing this: "My breed, Belgians, are herding dogs. I should at least be interested in herding if I'm going to breed them. Mine don't herd, but one of my breeding goals is to have dogs that could do it, if they were asked."
A Desire to Teach
No matter how high their goals, breeders are brought back to the reality that the public does not fully understand, or appreciate, their breed. The reputation of responsible breeders is based in many ways on how accurately they explain to potential buyers what it means to own and care for one of their dogs. All responsible breeders emphasize that a primary motivation for becoming a breeder must be a desire to educate.
The enterprise of dog breeding has received a lot of criticism in recent years, with the general consensus being that the world does not need more breeders. Ms. Nelson offers a twist. "Tens of millions of people buy dogs in this country. We know a high percentage don't understand how to be good owners. We need more responsible breeders who believe in providing better pets and teaching people. If that happens, we'll have more owners attending to dogs' care and welfare for a lifetime."
Opportunities to educate may come when there is no personal benefit. "Sometimes, people call asking for a puppy," Ms. Miller explains. "I might not have any puppies available. They'll say, 'OK, thanks.' But I've got them on the phone, so I jump in and ask questions, teach them something about Norfolks, even if they aren't buying from me. Sometimes, we'll talk for 25 minutes and they realize Norfolks aren't for them."
Ms. Miller's efforts to educate do not end with potential puppy buyers. She also challenges experienced breeders. "If people call me and say they want to breed one of my dogs, I ask, 'which one, and why.' This tells me whether they know what they are trying to achieve, or just want to breed. My reputation relies on who I choose to breed my dogs with."
Mr. Stickney challenges new breeders with this question: "Are you in this to help others, or just for yourself?" He refers not only to creating healthier dogs, but also to sharing details of your efforts with other people. Mr. Stickney likens dog breeding to being an inventor. "When you're successful, you can't act like you've found some secret formula you won't let other people use. You need to explain to other breeders, especially new breeders, what you've learned. If you don't do that, valuable information is lost."
It may take years for a breeder to be in a position to offer anything valuable, but Mr. Stickney says asking yourself whether you would be willing to share the secrets of your hard-earned success may reveal some of the true motivations behind your interest in breeding.
Playing Out a Chapter in Natural History?
Dr. Colin Allen, Ph.D., a professor of cognitive science and a member of the Center for the Integrative Study of Animal Behavior at Indiana University, often examines the psychology and history of human-animal connections. His work offers potential hints about what is behind the basic motivations of dog breeders.
Modern breeders may be playing out an ancient, subtle interplay that began when humans and wolves first met. Dr. Allen cites a study by scientists in Budapest comparing domesticated and wild wolves. The wolves were given the task of getting an object out of a box. "The domesticated wolves turned around and looked at their owners every few seconds, as if seeking some kind of social cues from the humans that said, 'keep doing what you're doing.' The wild wolves just went at it without looking back."
This experiment reveals the special way that canines reach for human connection. "Right from the beginning, people selected animals that are attentive to humans. People who breed may not be specifically trying to create more attentive dogs – it's usually focused on specific tasks such as herding – but on a very basic level, there's this cognitive ability that we like and select for."
There is an old joke about how people start to look like their dogs. Perhaps it is not such joke. Dr. Allen refers to Sally Boysen, who lived among, and studied, chimpanzees. "She was famous for saying, 'I am a chimp,' The chimps were doing what she did; she was doing what the chimps did. In the photos, she and the chimps have the same facial expressions."
Dr. Allen says this is even more relevant to dogs. "Dogs actually do better than chimpanzees on some social cognition tests – they are more sensitive to our cues. In the background, we have the long history of humans and dogs, and all along we've had this subtle selection for dogs whom we can form this kind of relationship with. It operates on a subconscious level, this responsiveness on both sides. There is this dance. Breeders may be seeking levels of interaction with dogs that we cannot get with other animal."
While most breeders are too rational to believe that dogs understand such things as breeding goals or winning in the ring, many do admit an inescapable sensation that, at some level, dogs comprehend the plan. Dr. Allen suggests there might be something to such folk wisdom. "It gets back to that social coupling that occurred between humans and dogs. Dogs are so attentive to us, they understand at some level what we're trying to accomplish and they are willing to do whatever it takes to make it happen."
Again, Why Do It?
There are no easy answers to what motivates breeders, but a good self-test that helps keep breeders on a path of continued success is to challenge themselves regularly. Ms. Nelson welcomes that challenge. By the end of our discussion, she admits with a laugh, "Now that I'm thinking of all this, I'm asking myself, 'Why am I doing this?'"
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